Sturdy Racquets · Buying Guide
How to Choose a Tennis Racquet
Six things decide whether a racquet suits you. This guide explains all six in plain words
Walk into a tennis shop and you'll see a wall of racquets that all look roughly the same. The prices go from $50 to $500. The labels say things like 100 sq in · 300g · 16×19 · 320mm. Most people just pick the one that looks nice, or the one their favourite player uses. Both are usually a mistake.
The good news: you only need to get six things right, and none of them are complicated. Once you understand them, you can walk up to any racquet, read its label, and know in about ten seconds whether it's for someone like you.
The 60-second answer
If you only read one box on this page, read this one.
- New to tennis? Look for a racquet around 105–110 sq in head, 255–275 g weight. Big face, light frame. Easy to hit with.
- Playing socially / weekly comp? Around 98–104 sq in, 280–300 g. The all-rounder zone.
- Strong, experienced, hitting hard? Around 95–100 sq in, 300–320 g. More control, more work.
- Everyone: get the grip size right (chart below) and don't buy a racquet that's heavier than you can swing comfortably for two hours.
The parts of a racquet
Five words cover almost everything a shop assistant will say to you. Here they are on the racquet itself.
Infographic 01
Every part you need to know
Be honest about your level
This is the step people skip, and it's the one that matters most. A racquet built for a strong, experienced player is genuinely harder to use — it gives you less help and demands a longer, faster swing. Buying one because it looks serious is like buying racing tyres for the school run.
Find yourself below. Nobody is watching.
Level A
Just starting out
You're learning, or you play a few times a year. Your swing is short and you don't always hit the middle of the strings.
You need: forgiveness. A big head and a light frame do a lot of the work for you.
Level B
Social & club player
You play most weeks, you can rally, you have a proper forehand and a serve that goes in.
You need: balance. Enough help to be easy, enough control to place the ball.
Level C
Strong & experienced
You play competition, swing fast and long, and you generate your own power easily.
You need: control and stability. You supply the power; the racquet keeps it in the court.
In plain English
"Forgiving" means the racquet still hits a decent ball even when you don't hit the middle. "Control" means the ball goes where you aimed, but you have to do the work.
One useful test: if you're not sure whether you're B or C, choose B. Almost everybody overrates themselves, and the cost of a racquet that's slightly too easy is much lower than one that's too demanding.
Head size — how big is the hitting area?
Head size is measured in square inches (written sq in). Most adult racquets are between 95 and 115.
Bigger head = bigger sweet spot = easier. More of your shots feel good, and off-centre hits still go over the net. Smaller head = smaller sweet spot = more control. When you do hit the middle, the ball goes exactly where you meant it to.
Infographic 02
What head size actually changes
What if I'm in between?
100–104 sq in is the safest number in tennis. It's what most club players use, most brands sell the most of, and it's very hard to be unhappy with. If you're stuck, start there.
Weight — how heavy does it feel to swing?
Racquets are usually listed by their unstrung weight in grams. Add roughly 15–17 g for the strings and grip once it's ready to play.
Here's the trade-off in one sentence: a lighter racquet is easier to swing quickly; a heavier racquet hits a steadier, stronger ball but tires you out. When a heavy ball hits a light racquet, the racquet loses — it gets pushed back and twisted. A heavier frame holds its line.
Infographic 03
The weight scale
The two-hour test
Pick up the racquet and hold it out in front of you, arm straight, for 30 seconds. Then shadow-swing a forehand twenty times. If your arm is complaining already, it will be unbearable in the second set. Choose the racquet you can still swing properly when you're tired — that's the one that decides matches.
Balance — where the weight sits
Two racquets can both weigh 300 g and feel completely different, because of where that weight is. Balance is written in millimetres from the butt cap — a bigger number means more weight up in the head.
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Head-light, even, head-heavy
- →Light racquet (under 280 g)? Head-heavy is your friend. It puts some weight back behind the ball.
- →Heavier racquet (295 g+)? Head-light keeps it manoeuvrable, especially at the net and on quick returns.
- →Not sure? Balance matters less than weight and grip size. Don't let it stall your decision.
Grip size — the cheapest mistake to avoid
A grip that's too small makes you squeeze harder, which tires your forearm and is one of the most common causes of tennis elbow. A grip that's too big stops your wrist moving freely and is hard to fix. It costs nothing to get this right, so get it right.
Infographic 05
Two ways to find your grip size
| Hand measurement | Grip size (inches) | European code | Typically |
|---|---|---|---|
| under 100 mm | 4" | G0 | Older juniors, very small hands |
| 100–103 mm | 4 1⁄8" | G1 | Smaller adult hands |
| 103–106 mm | 4 1⁄4" | G2 | Most common women's size |
| 106–110 mm | 4 3⁄8" | G3 | Most common men's size |
| 110–113 mm | 4 1⁄2" | G4 | Larger hands |
| 113 mm+ | 4 5⁄8" | G5 | Very large hands |
The golden rule
If you land between two sizes, take the smaller one. An overgrip adds about half a size for around $6 and takes two minutes to fit. Making a grip bigger is easy; making it smaller means a rebuild.
Strings and tension
Strings are the part that actually touches the ball, and they change how a racquet plays more than most people expect. They're also the cheapest thing to change — so if a racquet is nearly right, new strings often finish the job.
String type
Softest · cheapest
Synthetic gut
The standard string most racquets come with. Comfortable, fine for everyone, nothing special.
Best for: beginners and casual players.
Soft · comfortable
Multifilament
Made of many tiny fibres. Kind to the arm and feels lovely. Wears out faster.
Best for: anyone with a sore elbow or shoulder.
Stiff · durable
Polyester ("poly")
What most pros use. Great spin and control, lasts against big swings — but harsh on the arm and it goes dead within weeks.
Best for: strong players who break strings.
Premium
Natural gut
The best feel money can buy, and the price to match. Doesn't like rain.
Best for: players who know exactly what they want.
Thickness matters too. Strings are sold in gauges — roughly 1.20 mm (thin) to 1.35 mm (thick). Thinner grabs the ball better for spin and feel but snaps sooner. Thicker lasts longer and feels duller. If you break strings often, go thicker.
Tension
Tension is how tightly the strings are pulled, measured in pounds (lb) or kilograms (kg). Every racquet has a recommended range printed on the frame — usually something like 50–60 lb.
Infographic 06
Looser or tighter?
Match it to how you actually play
Level tells you how much help you need. Style tells you what kind. Read the three below and pick whichever sounds most like your last match.
You stay at the back and rally
Long swings, lots of topspin, happy to grind out points from the baseline.
- Slightly heavier frame for stability
- Open string pattern (16×19) for spin
- Poly or hybrid strings if you swing fast
You come to the net
Serve-and-volley, doubles, quick hands, short punchy swings.
- Head-light balance so it moves fast
- Tighter string pattern (18×20) for control
- Comfortable string — you'll feel every volley
You block and place the ball
Compact swing, steady, you'd rather use your opponent's pace than make your own.
- Bigger head and a lighter frame
- Head-heavy for free power
- Lower tension, softer string
In plain English
"16×19" just means 16 strings running up-and-down and 19 running across. Fewer strings = bigger gaps = the ball sinks in and comes out with more spin. More strings = a tighter net = more control and longer-lasting strings.
Buying for a child
For juniors, forget everything above except one number: length. Junior racquets are sized in inches, and a racquet that's too long is the fastest way to teach a child bad technique — they can't swing it, so they learn to push the ball with a stiff arm.
Infographic 07
Junior racquet length by age
- ✓Buy the size that fits now. A racquet is much cheaper than a year of bad habits.
- ✓Junior racquets come pre-strung and don't usually need restringing.
- ✓Once a child is on the 27" adult racquet, start again at Step 1 of this guide — a light, forgiving adult frame.
Put it all together
Three questions, in this order. Answer them and you'll have narrowed a wall of a hundred racquets down to about five.
How much help do I need?
Beginner → big head (105–115). Club player → 98–104. Advanced → 95–100.
How much can I swing for two hours?
Not much → 255–275 g. Comfortably fit → 280–300 g. Strong and experienced → 300–320 g.
Does it fit my hand?
Measure palm crease to ring fingertip. Between sizes → go smaller and add an overgrip.
Your shortlist
Now filter by those three numbers, pick the two or three you like the look of, and hit with them before you commit.
The cheat sheet
Screenshot this. It's the whole guide in one table.
| If you are… | Head size | Weight | Balance | Strings | Tension |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Just starting | 105–115 sq in | 255–275 g | Head-heavy | Synthetic gut | 50–55 lb |
| Improving / social | 100–105 sq in | 275–290 g | Even | Multifilament | 52–57 lb |
| Club & comp | 98–102 sq in | 290–305 g | Head-light | Multi or hybrid | 52–58 lb |
| Strong & advanced | 95–100 sq in | 300–320 g | Head-light | Polyester | 48–55 lb |
These are starting points, not rules. Plenty of good players use something on this table that "shouldn't" suit them, because it feels right in their hand. Feel wins.
Seven common mistakes
1. Buying the racquet your favourite pro uses
Pro racquets are heavy, small-headed and unforgiving, and the ones in shops are rarely the same spec anyway. It will make you worse, not better.
2. Going too heavy to "look serious"
Your technique falls apart when your arm tires. The extra 20 grams costs you more than it gives you.
3. Ignoring grip size
It's free to get right and expensive to get wrong — this is the number one cause of avoidable arm pain.
4. Choosing on colour
Fine as a tie-breaker between two racquets that both suit you. Never as the first filter.
5. Never restringing
Strings lose their tension whether you play or not. Playing on three-year-old strings makes a $300 racquet feel like a $30 one.
6. Buying a "power" racquet when you already hit hard
If your problem is balls flying long, more power is the last thing you need. You want control.
7. Buying without hitting
Two racquets with identical numbers can feel completely different. Ten minutes on court tells you more than ten reviews.
How to test a racquet properly
Most good tennis shops will let you demo. Take it seriously — this is the only part of the process that tells you the truth.
- ✓Test two or three at once, not one. You need something to compare against.
- ✓Hit for at least 30 minutes. Anything feels good for the first five.
- ✓Serve and volley too, not just forehands. Heavy racquets feel fine until you have to react quickly.
- ✓Play a set. Fatigue is the honest judge.
- ✓Check the strings are fresh in the demo, or you're judging the strings, not the frame.
- ✗Don't swing it in the shop and decide. That tells you nothing about how it hits a ball.
- ✗Don't test on a windy day, or in your first week back after a break.
What should I spend?
$60 – $130
Starting out
Aluminium frames, pre-strung. Perfectly good for learning and social hits. Replace it when you start playing weekly.
$150 – $280
The real jump
Graphite frames, proper specs, noticeably more stable and comfortable. This is where most players should be.
$280 – $450
Top of the range
Better materials and dampening. Real gains — but only once your technique is consistent enough to feel them.
A quiet truth: last season's model of a premium racquet, discounted, is almost always better value than this season's mid-range one.
Looking after it
Restring on a schedule
The old rule still works: restring as many times a year as you play days per week. Twice a week → twice a year. Play daily → every few weeks.
Change your overgrip often
A few dollars, two minutes, and it fixes a slippery handle instantly. Every 5–10 hits if you sweat.
Don't leave it in the car
Heat softens the glue and kills string tension. Australian summers are brutal on racquets — bring it inside.
If your arm hurts
Loosen the tension, switch to a softer string, check your grip isn't too small, and add a dampener. In that order.
Questions people ask us
How long does a tennis racquet last?
The frame itself lasts for years if you don't crack it — many club players keep the same racquet for five or more seasons. Graphite does soften very slowly with heavy use, but for most people the strings and grip wear out long before the frame does. Replace it when your game outgrows it, not on a timer.
Do I need two identical racquets?
Only if you play competition and break strings. Snapping a string mid-match with no backup means borrowing something unfamiliar. Social players don't need a second one.
Can I just use my partner's racquet?
You can, but check the grip size first — if it's too small for you, tape an overgrip on before you play. A racquet that's the wrong weight for you is uncomfortable; one that's the wrong grip size can genuinely hurt you.
My teenager is nearly adult height. Junior or adult racquet?
If they can comfortably swing a 27" adult frame with good form, move them up — but choose a light one (around 270–285 g) rather than a full-weight adult racquet. Growing arms don't need 320 grams.
What's a dampener, and do I need one?
The little rubber button people put in the strings. It quietens the "ping" sound. It does not reduce shock to your arm, whatever anyone tells you — it's purely about the sound and feel you prefer. Try it both ways.
Is a more expensive racquet actually better?
Better made, yes — but "better for you" depends entirely on whether the specs suit your level. A $400 player's racquet will make a beginner worse than a $120 beginner's frame. Spend on the right specs first, the price bracket second.
I have tennis elbow. What should I look for?
A softer, more flexible frame; a multifilament or natural gut string rather than polyester; tension at the lower end of the range; and a grip that isn't too small. Also worth checking your technique — a late, arm-only backhand causes more elbows than any racquet does.
This guide is general advice. If you're recovering from an injury or have ongoing pain, talk to a physio or coach before changing your gear.
Still not sure?
Tell us how you play, and we'll shortlist three
Bring your level, your budget and your hand measurement into the store, or send them to us online. We'd rather spend ten minutes getting it right than sell you the wrong racquet twice.
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