Sturdy Racquets · Gear Guide

How to Choose a Pickleball Paddle

Core thickness, face material, shape and weight, in plain English. Everything you need to pick a paddle you will not want to replace in three months.

12 minute read No jargon Includes a what-to-buy table

Every pickleball paddle looks more or less the same. A flat face, a short handle, a rubber strip around the edge. Then you look at the price and one is $58 and the next is $450, and nothing on the box explains why.

The good news is that only four things really change how a paddle plays, and once you know what they do you can walk past most of the marketing. Core thickness, face material, shape and weight. Everything else is colour.

The 30-second answer

  1. Core thickness is the big one. 16mm is the modern default and gives you control and a large sweet spot. 13mm and 14mm give you more power and a firmer, poppier feel.
  2. The face sets spin and feel. Fiberglass is cheap and powerful. Raw carbon grips the ball and gives you spin and control. Both work.
  3. Shape trades reach against forgiveness. A standard shape is the safe pick for almost everyone. Elongated buys reach and costs you sweet spot.
  4. Weight and grip size are about your body, not your level. Get these two wrong and nothing else on the paddle can save it.

If you are buying your first paddle, a 16mm standard shape at around $100 to $150 is the answer for most people. You will not outgrow it quickly and you will not have wasted money if you stop playing.

START HERE

The parts of a paddle

A paddle is simpler than a tennis racquet. There are no strings, no tension, and nothing to restring. What you buy is what you play with until it wears out.

Underneath the graphics, every modern paddle is a sandwich. A honeycomb core in the middle, a thin sheet of fiberglass or carbon glued to each side, and a rubber or plastic guard wrapped around the edge to stop the whole thing splitting when you scrape it on the court.

Infographic 01

What each part does

1 2 3 4 5 1. The face The hitting surface. A thin sheet of fiberglass or carbon. Its texture is where all your spin comes from, and it is the first thing to wear out. 2. The edge guard A rubber strip protecting the rim from court scrapes. Some paddles go edgeless for a slightly larger face, and chip more easily as a result. 3. The throat Where the face meets the handle. It carries the load on every shot, so it is the part that cracks if a paddle is going to fail. 4. The grip Shorter and thinner than a tennis grip. Length matters as much as thickness if you hit a two handed backhand. 5. The butt cap Stops your hand sliding off. Nothing more.
1 2 3 4 5 1. The face The hitting surface. Its texture is where all of your spin comes from. 2. The edge guard A rubber strip protecting the rim from court scrapes. 3. The throat Where the face meets the handle. The part that cracks if a paddle fails. 4. The grip Thinner and shorter than a tennis grip. Length matters as much as thickness. 5. The butt cap Stops your hand sliding off.
There is no string bed, so a paddle cannot be adjusted after you buy it. The only things you can change later are the overgrip and, if you know what you are doing, a little lead tape on the edge.

Jargon, translated

Core. The honeycomb layer in the middle. Almost always polypropylene, which brands write as polymer, poly or PP.

Raw carbon. A carbon face left unpainted so the weave itself grips the ball. This is where the spin marketing comes from.

Thermoformed. The paddle is moulded as one sealed piece with foam around the inside of the rim, rather than glued together. Stiffer, more powerful, more expensive.

Dwell time. How long the ball stays on the face. More dwell means more control and more spin. It is the thing a thicker core is really selling you.

THE BIG ONE

Core thickness, the number in every product name

Look at almost any paddle listing and there is a number in millimetres in the title. 13mm, 14mm, 16mm, 19mm. That is the thickness of the honeycomb core, and it changes how the paddle plays more than anything else on the spec sheet.

The way to think about it is how long the ball stays on the face. A thin core is stiff, so the ball leaves quickly and fast. A thick core flexes and lets the ball sit on the face a fraction longer, which gives you more control over where it goes and more chance to put spin on it.

Infographic 02

Inside the paddle, drawn to scale

CROSS SECTION THROUGH THE PADDLE, MAGNIFIED 13mm core thinner, stiffer, faster off the face 13mm 16mm core thicker, softer, holds the ball longer 16mm THE LAYERS Face skin Fiberglass or carbon, under half a millimetre thick on each side. Core Polypropylene honeycomb. Nearly all of the thickness, and almost none of the weight. The 3mm difference between these two is the most argued about number in the sport.
CROSS SECTION, MAGNIFIED 13mm core thinner, stiffer, faster off the face 13mm 16mm core thicker, softer, holds the ball longer 16mm Face skin, under half a millimetre Polypropylene honeycomb core The 3mm between these two is the most argued about number in the sport.
The cores are drawn to scale against each other. The honeycomb pattern is simplified, but the proportions are real: the face skins are a rounding error next to the core, which is why core thickness dominates how a paddle feels.
Thickness Feels like Good for Watch out for
13 to 14mm Firm and poppy. The ball springs off. Driving the ball, finishing points, players who already have soft hands. Smaller sweet spot. Off centre hits go badly wrong.
16mm Softer. The ball sits for a moment. Almost everyone. Dinks, resets, control, and a forgiving sweet spot. You have to generate your own power on drives.
19mm Very soft and muted. Players who live at the net and want maximum touch. Noticeably less power. It is a specialist choice.

If you are unsure, take the 16mm. It is what most paddles are built around now, it is more forgiving on the days your timing is off, and the power you give up is smaller than the control you gain.

THE FACE

The face, and where spin comes from

Spin in pickleball does not come from strings, because there are none. It comes from friction. The rougher the face, the more the ball grips it on the way past, and the more it spins.

That is the whole reason raw carbon paddles took over. A painted face is smooth, so the ball slides. A raw carbon face is left unpainted so the weave itself does the gripping.

Infographic 03

A painted face and a raw carbon face, up close

PAINTED FIBERGLASS Glossy and smooth. The ball slides across it, so you get less bite and less spin. Fiberglass flexes more than carbon, which returns more energy to the ball. That is why cheap paddles often feel surprisingly powerful and surprisingly hard to control. Cheapest to make. Fine to learn on. RAW CARBON Matte, and rough enough to feel with a fingernail. The ball grips instead of sliding. Carbon is stiffer, so less energy comes back and the paddle feels more controlled. You supply the power and the face supplies the spin. More expensive. Lasts longer.
PAINTED FIBERGLASS Glossy and smooth, so the ball slides across it and you get less spin. Fiberglass flexes more than carbon and returns more energy, which is why cheap paddles feel powerful and hard to control. Cheapest to make. Fine to learn on. RAW CARBON Matte, and rough enough to feel with a fingernail. The ball grips instead of sliding. Carbon is stiffer, so you supply the power and the face supplies the spin.
Both photographs are of paddles in our range at the same magnification. The texture on the raw carbon face is what wears smooth over time, which is why spin is the first thing you lose on an old paddle.

Cheapest

Fiberglass

Also sold as composite. Flexible, powerful, smooth. Wears out fastest. Common under $150.

The classic

Graphite

Light and stiff with a consistent feel. Less spin than raw carbon but very predictable.

The standard now

Raw carbon

Sold as T700, 12K or 18K depending on the weave. Most spin, most control, most durable, most expensive.

Some paddles use a hybrid, with a layer of carbon over a fiberglass base, to get the spin of one and the power of the other. It is a genuine middle ground rather than a marketing trick.

SHAPE

Shape, and the rule that limits it

Paddle shapes are not a free choice for the manufacturer. The governing rules say the length plus the width cannot add up to more than 24 inches, and the length on its own cannot pass 17 inches. Every shape you can buy is a different way of spending that 24 inches.

Spend it on length and you get reach and leverage, which means more power on serves and drives, but the face gets narrower and the sweet spot shrinks. Spend it on width and you get a big forgiving face and less reach.

Infographic 04

The three shapes, side by side

SHOWN AT THE SAME FACE HEIGHT SO THE WIDTHS COMPARE Elongated Selkirk Vanguard Invikta about 16.5 x 7.5 in Standard Wilson Envy Plus about 16 x 8 in Widebody SLK ERA Power about 15.5 x 8.5 in
SAME FACE HEIGHT, LEFT TO RIGHT BELOW Elongated Selkirk Vanguard Invikta, about 16.5 x 7.5 in Standard Wilson Envy Plus, about 16 x 8 in Widebody SLK ERA Power, about 15.5 x 8.5 in
Three paddles from our own range, photographed by their makers and scaled here so the hitting faces are the same height. That is the only fair way to compare them, because every brand shoots at a different distance and overall length in a product photo cannot be trusted.

One warning about the labels. We measured the hitting face on every paddle photograph in our own range, and the shape names overlap badly. Paddles two different brands both call standard came out noticeably different from each other, and one labelled elongated measured wider than three labelled standard. Treat the shape name as a rough guide and look at the actual dimensions on the product page.

WEIGHT

Weight

Paddle weight is quoted in ounces overseas and grams here, and the whole useful range is about 40 grams wide. That sounds like nothing. On a paddle you swing several hundred times in a session, it is the difference between quick hands and a sore elbow.

Infographic 05

Where paddles actually sit

PADDLE WEIGHT AS SOLD 220g 225g 230g Light Midweight Heavy 200g215g 235g250g Light, under 215g Fastest hands at the net. You have to swing harder for the same pace, and hard hit balls push the paddle around in your hand. Mid, 215 to 235g Where nearly every paddle and nearly every player belongs. Enough mass to be stable, light enough to react at the kitchen line. Heavy, over 235g More power for less effort and very stable on blocks. Slower to get up for a fast exchange, and harder on the elbow and shoulder.
PADDLE WEIGHT AS SOLD 220g 225g 230g Midweight 200g215g 235g250g Light, under 215g Fastest hands at the net. You have to swing harder for the same pace. Mid, 215 to 235g Where nearly every paddle and nearly every player belongs. Stable, and quick enough. Heavy, over 235g More power for less effort. Slower to get up, and harder on the elbow.
The three marked weights are real paddles from our range. Notice how close together they are. Anyone telling you a 5 gram difference will transform your game is selling something.

An overgrip adds about 5 to 8 grams and sits in your hand, so it makes a paddle feel heavier than the number suggests. If a paddle feels right in the shop, remember you will probably add one.

THE GRIP

Grip size and handle length

This is the part people skip, and it is the part most likely to hurt you. Pickleball grips are thinner than tennis grips, usually between 4 and 4 and a half inches around. A grip that is too small makes you squeeze to stop the paddle twisting, and squeezing all afternoon is how people end up with a sore elbow.

Infographic 06

Getting the handle right

Check it with your finger Hold the paddle as if you are about to hit a forehand. There should be just enough room to slide the index finger of your other hand into the gap between your fingertips and your palm. When in doubt, go smaller You can build a grip up with an overgrip, which adds about an eighth of an inch. You cannot easily make a handle thinner. Handle length is a real choice A short handle near 4 and a half inches leaves more room for face, so the sweet spot is bigger. A long handle of 5 and a half inches or more fits a two handed backhand, and is what most players coming from tennis end up preferring.
Check it with your finger Hold the paddle as if you are about to hit a forehand. There should be just enough room to slide the index finger of your other hand between fingertips and palm. When in doubt, go smaller You can build a grip up with an overgrip, which adds about an eighth of an inch. You cannot easily make one thinner. Handle length is a real choice A short handle leaves more room for face, so the sweet spot is bigger. A long handle of 5 and a half inches or more fits a two handed backhand, which suits most players coming from tennis.
If you are between two grip sizes, take the smaller one and add an overgrip. That also lets you refresh the grip when it wears out instead of living with a slick handle.
CROSSING OVER

If you are coming from tennis

Most people picking up a first paddle in Australia already play tennis. Almost everything transfers, but four things catch people out.

  • ✓The swing is much shorter. There is no time for a full backswing at the net, and the ball does not need it. A big tennis swing is the most common thing coaches have to unwind.
  • ✓The sweet spot is far smaller. A paddle face is a fraction of a racquet head. Pick a standard shape and a 16mm core and give yourself the biggest target you can.
  • ✓Do not buy heavy just because you are strong. Hand speed at the kitchen line matters more than power, and a heavy paddle is slow to get up.
  • ✓Take the longer handle if you hit a two handed backhand. It is the single most useful thing a tennis player can look for.

Your tennis grip size does not carry over

Pickleball handles are thinner and shorter than tennis handles, and the numbers are not comparable. Ignore what you use on a racquet and size the paddle on its own, using the finger test above. If you are choosing a racquet as well, our tennis racquet guide covers grip sizing for that side of the game.

THE MONEY

What the money actually buys

Paddles in our range run from about $58 to about $450. That is close to an eight times difference for two pieces of gear that weigh the same and are the same size. Here is what is actually changing as the price climbs.

Infographic 07

What each price band gets you

WHAT CHANGES AS THE PRICE GOES UP Under $100 $100 to $180 $180 to $350 $350 and up Fiberglass face, polymer core, glued construction. Plays perfectly well. Wears out sooner. Better edge guards, some carbon in the face, more consistent weight between one paddle and the next. Raw carbon face and usually thermoformed. This is where the real jump in spin and control happens. Premium weaves, foam filled rims, tighter tolerances. Small gains that matter if you play competition. HOW MUCH IT CHANGES YOUR GAME The step from a $60 paddle to a $180 paddle changes how you play more than the step from $180 to $450. Past a certain point you are buying consistency and feel, not extra wins.
WHAT CHANGES AS THE PRICE GOES UP Under $100 Fiberglass face, polymer core, glued construction. Plays perfectly well. Wears out sooner. $100 to $180 Better edge guards, some carbon in the face, more consistent weight between one paddle and the next. $180 to $350 Raw carbon face and usually thermoformed. This is where the real jump in spin and control happens. $350 and up Premium weaves, foam filled rims, tighter tolerances. Small gains that matter if you play competition. GREEN BARS ARE WHERE IT CHANGES YOUR GAME The step from $60 to $180 changes how you play more than the step from $180 to $450.
Nobody has ever lost a social game because their paddle cost $90. Buy at the level you play at, and put the difference towards court time.
DECIDE

Which paddle for you

You have never played, or you play socially

16mm, standard shape, midweight, under $130. Do not overthink it. A fiberglass or hybrid face is plenty while you are learning where the ball goes, and you will still be able to use it as a spare later.

↓
You play weekly and you are getting competitive

16mm, raw carbon face, standard shape, $150 to $250. This is the biggest single upgrade available to a club player. The face texture is what you are paying for and you will feel it on every dink.

↓
You play tournaments and you know your style

Choose thickness and shape to match how you win points. Elongated and 14mm if you finish with drives. Standard and 16mm if you win from the kitchen. This is the point where the specifics start to matter.

↓
You are coming across from tennis

16mm, standard shape, longer handle, midweight. Resist the elongated paddle for now. Your instinct will be to swing big, and a forgiving face will save you while you shorten it.

If you are Core Face Shape Spend
Brand new 16mm Fiberglass or hybrid Standard $58 to $130
Playing weekly 16mm Raw carbon Standard $150 to $250
Club competition 14 or 16mm Raw carbon Standard or elongated $200 to $350
Tournament Your choice Raw carbon, thermoformed Matched to your game $330 and up
A junior 16mm Fiberglass Standard, lighter $58 to $100

Prices are the current starting points in our pickleball paddle range and move with stock.

CARE

Making it last

A paddle does not break so much as fade. The face goes smooth, the core softens, and one day you notice the ball is not doing what it used to. Most people never realise, because it happens slowly.

  • ✓Use a cover. Most of the damage to a paddle face happens in a bag, not on court, from keys and other paddles rubbing against it.
  • ✓Wipe the face down. A damp cloth after playing lifts the court dust that fills in the texture and kills your spin.
  • ✓Add edge guard tape if you scrape the court on low dinks. It is a few dollars and it saves the rim.
  • ✓Keep it out of a hot car. Heat softens the glue holding the sandwich together. The same rule as racquets, and the reason a thermal bag is worth having.
  • ✓Tap face to face. The end of point paddle tap should be flat faces meeting gently, not edge guards clashing.

Signs it is finished

  • ✗Your slices and rolls stop biting the way they used to. Spin is always the first thing to go.
  • ✗The face feels smooth under a fingernail where it used to feel like fine sandpaper.
  • ✗The sound changes, or there is a dull patch that sounds different from the rest of the face.
  • ✗You can see the edge guard lifting, or hear a rattle inside.

A rough guide: a social player gets a few years out of a paddle, and someone playing several times a week will notice a good paddle going flat somewhere between one and two years.

FAQ

Questions people ask us

Do I need an expensive paddle to start?

No. A paddle under $100 will not hold you back for your first season, and plenty of good club players use one by choice. The reason to upgrade later is spin from a raw carbon face, not because the cheap one stopped working.

What does thermoformed actually mean?

The paddle is moulded and sealed as one piece, with foam injected around the inside of the rim, instead of the face sheets being glued to the core. It makes the paddle stiffer and more powerful and enlarges the sweet spot. It also costs more, and it is the main thing separating a $200 paddle from a $120 one.

Can I use a tennis racquet to play pickleball?

Not in any organised game. The rules require a solid paddle within the size limits, and a strung racquet is not legal. It would also play badly, because the ball is light and plastic and a string bed gives you nothing to work with.

Does my paddle need to be USA Pickleball approved?

Only if you enter sanctioned tournaments. For social and most club play nobody checks. Almost every paddle we stock carries the stamp anyway, so it rarely costs you anything to have it.

Why does my paddle sound different from my friend's?

Core thickness and construction. Thinner cores and thermoformed paddles are louder and higher pitched. Thicker cores sound duller. Some venues have noise limits, and a thicker core is the quieter option if that is a problem where you play.

How long does a paddle last?

For a social player, several years. For someone playing three or four times a week, expect the face texture to fade within a year and the core to feel flat somewhere in the second year. Nothing dramatic happens. It just quietly stops doing what it used to.

Can I carry a paddle in my tennis bag?

Easily. A paddle is much shorter than a racquet, so any tennis bag swallows one, and a 6 racquet bag will carry paddles and racquets together if you play both. There are dedicated pickleball bags too, which are simply smaller.

What ball should I be using?

Outdoor balls are harder with smaller holes, and indoor balls are softer with larger holes. They are not interchangeable and an indoor ball outdoors will move around in any wind. Buy for where you actually play.

Specifications quoted here are typical for current paddles and vary between brands. Where a number matters to you, check the individual product page.

Not sure where to start?

Tell us how often you play and we will narrow it to two

Whether you have played before, whether you come from tennis, and roughly what you want to spend. That is usually enough for us to put the right two paddles in front of you.

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